Quilting on Frames and Hoops

By Liz Sewell

(An edited version of this document was published in British Patchwork and Quilting in February and March 2001).

"This document may be reproduced for your own use. It should not be copied or published in any form without the written permission of the author."

Introduction to Quilting Frames and Hoops

Whether you are making a pieced, an appliquéd or a wholecloth quilt you’ll need to quilt it! However, for many patchworkers the pleasurable part is picking the fabrics, playing with colour and making the pieced top. For those with a passion for appliqué the same is true - the quilting is secondary. In reality finishing the piecing or appliqué is only the halfway point. How many of us have unfinished tops that need quilting?

In contrast for those doing a wholecloth quilt the biggest pleasure of the process is the quilting. Quilting, whether by machine or by hand, can be as enjoyable as the piecing.

So, what about the tools you can use for quilting? It is possible to quilt without a hoop or frame. The downside of doing so is that your work is not supported, can stretch in some directions more than others and is harder to achieve even stitches particularly when quilting a large quilt. Furthermore if you allow the quilt to drape on the floor while you are quilting the layers may shift.

Frame or Hoop?

The first question is do you need a frame or a hoop? The biggest constraint with a frame is its size. The majority of our homes in the UK have smaller rooms than in the United States. Videos of some of the ladies doing Durham Quilting show the quilt frames taking up most of the living room. This may not be a situation that the rest of your family would be content with! A floor-standing, hand-held or lap hoop may be the answer where space is a limited.

The other factor to consider is that with a hoop you can always quilt in your favourite stitch direction and furthermore your project is more portable. You may even be able to work in your favourite easy chair — but the downside is you must baste the quilt and have the bulk of the quilt to deal with.

A wooden hoop should be made of strong wood, have good fittings that will stand up to being tightened and loosened frequently and be at least 1” deep. All of the hoops in the comparison table meet these criteria.

Hoops

Hoops can be designed to be held (a free hoop), on a stand you can place on your lap or table or floor-standing. The advantage of the second two options is that you don’t have to support your hoop. How do you support a free hoop without sitting at a table? One method is to use your leg bent up with the hoop resting on it. I quilt like this and the only downside is that in polite company this is not exactly a ladylike posture to adopt. Family and good friends only!

Hoops tend to be made of either wood or plastic. The plastic ones have the advantage of being light, easy to dismantle for storage and relatively inexpensive. If you do other crafts such as cross-stitch or embroidery a plastic square hoop will be useful for your quilting as well. They are particularly suitable for blocks and cushion squares. The plastic hoops are easy to get very firm tension on but not so easy to get the looser tension that some people prefer for quilting.

A floor-standing hoop will support your quilt and allow you to rotate the hoop. The ball-joint hoops are the easiest to use in this respect. Another feature to look for is an unobstructed access from the underside of the hoop – too many supports or ones that get in the way can be frustrating. The base must be either heavy or well balanced if you are going to quilt a large quilt. The comparison table on hoops looks at the various features and benefits of a number of lap and floor-standing hoops.

Size of Hoop

Whether you are going for free, lap or floor-standing models you need to consider what size hoop is right for you? If you quilt both toward your body and away from it then you will only need to reach the centre of the hoop. However, most quilters quilt in only one direction, which is usually toward their body. In this case measure the distance from the inside of your elbow to the end joint of your fingertip. This gives you your hoop size. It is possible to reach further but only by rounding your shoulders and possibly thereby causing muscle strain.

If your biggest concern is having to reposition your quilt frequently or being able to quilt a block without moving it then the average size of the blocks you sew will determine the size of hoop you require instead.

Square or Round Pegs?

The debate over whether square or round is better has reached no definite conclusion. Round tends to be more comfortable to work with because it doesn’t have any angles to catch on or that dig into you. With a round hoop you can reach all parts of the quilt equally easily whereas with a square, oval or rectangular hoop the distance changes. Square hoops make sense because they pull the lengthways and crosswise grain evenly. They enable you to quilt blocks easily and you don’t need any adapters to quilt the edges of the quilt. With a round hoop you have to take care you don’t over stretch the bias, particularly if it is a wholecloth quilt.

Frames

Three-pole designs of frames eliminate basting. This is one of the greatest benefits for having a quilting frame. Most people think this is big enough justification for getting a frame and I have to say that my knees and back would agree with them!

The fabric and wadding rolls from two rails onto one and you quilt between them. Even if you machine quilt your quilt you may find basting your quilt on a frame easier than other methods of basting. Then you can remove your quilt and use your machine for quilting as normal.

You need to consider the following points when deciding on what frame to buy:

Space	If space is a constraint consider a frame that can either be easily dismantled or folded up for storage when you are not using it.
Sizes	Do you generally make or intend to make the same size of quilt or will you need a variety of sizes? You can always do smaller quilts on longer poles but you may find it easier if you have a shorter pole length to deal with. Space is also an issue here. When you do a 36” wall-hanging you may not want eight foot long poles on your frame. Will you need to extend your poles for a super-king at some point in the future?
Wood and design	The look of the frame can be important. If the frame is going to be residing in a dining room or your lounge you may find a frame with a less functional, more styled look complements your furniture whilst still being a practical tool. Alternatively some of the plywood construction frames can be stained to suit the room.
Easy of access	Some frames have cross-bar supports that may interfere with a very large chair – consider what you will be using to quilt from. If you are a wheelchair user then certain frames will be much easier to get underneath without a cross-bar impeding your access.
Quilt area	Will you be quilting on your own or with others – some designs are more suitable for group quilting and you can quilt from both sides. If you know you will have a problem quilting in all directions from one side consider a frame that can be quilted from both sides as well. A sliding middle rail enables you to do this on certain frames.
Height and tilt	Does the frame have height and tilt features so that you can be as comfortable as possible.
Setup for quilting	How easy is it to put the quilt on the frame? The instructions for putting the quilt on the frame do vary. Some are excellent and easy to follow. Some frames come with cloth leaders for attaching your quilt to the frame. Other require you to make a cloth leader which are usually pieces of calico or American muslin with a variety of lengths for the different poles. Some frames require you to roll the quilt onto the frame. This is fine if you have sufficient room to lay your quilt out but if space were a constraint this would not be the frame for you. Most frames enable you to roll the parts of the quilt onto the poles of the frame directly. This is probably an easier method for large quilts.
Tension system	Two types of tensioning system are available – ratchets and friction lock. Ratchets vary by the number of teeth they have – the more teeth the more you can finely tune your tension to get it just right for you. Stoppers on the ratchets allow you to loosen or tighten the tension. Some have ratchets on each side so you can adjust the tension from whichever side is the easiest. Ratchets are made from wood or polymer. The friction lock system is adjusted by tightening or loosening fingerbolts. This allows infinite tension adjustment. However, when the tension is being adjusted the frame is less stable since there is no crossbar and two people probably more easily accomplish this procedure on a very large quilt. Side tension Side-tensioning systems are available as standard, as extras on some frames or not available on others. If the quilt is perfectly square and the quilt has been put onto the frame correctly the need for side tension may be less.
Lighting	Good lighting is important – a space for a daylight lamp to fit into is important unless you have a free-standing light.
Budget	Frames come in a variety of function and price. Study the Frames Comparison table. You may be able to add poles to some frames over a period of time so your initial outlay may be less.

Summary on Features
Remember you will probably only ever buy one quilting frame so choosing the right one for you is important. All of the frames that are shown in the comparison table below will make quilting much easier but each person has slightly different criteria for what is important to them. Try frames out if possible – The Cotton Patch does have a selection of frames in the shop that you can sit at. Sometimes the frames are on display at shows. Use the opportunity to try them out. If you are concerned about whether or not your quilting style will suit working at a frame consider the fact that by angling your body 45 degrees to the pole from each side that you will be able to work most quilting designs.

Click here for a comparison table of different Hoops and Frames.

In conclusion, there is no clear-cut answer as to what is the best thing to use for quilting. We are all individuals with preferences and styles that differ. The best thing is to consider your individual circumstances, look at the options, try out hoops and frames that friends may have or in our shop. Please call us to discuss your individual requirements further. You should then be able to make the decision that suits you.

The following web sites have more information:
www.jasmineheirlooms.com
www.hinterberg.com
www.graceframe.com

How to Prepare Your Quilt for Quilting

Preparation is the key to getting a good end result. All three layers need to be securely held together whether by pins, basted using long tacking stitches, tacked using a basting gun or put onto a frame.

1.	The quilt top and backing should be ironed.
2.	If you need to mark your quilting design on the quilt top it should be done now.
3.	If you have bought a pre-cut quilt wadding take it out of it’s packaging and leave it where it can drape or hang so that creases are removed. If you are using a quilting frame this is all you need to do as the frame does the basting for you – look at the section below for how to attach your quilt to a frame.
4.	Using a table or floor lay the backing fabric right side down on the floor until it is flat. Starting at the centre smooth the fabric to the outside (take care not to stretch it). Use masking tape to secure the edges of the quilt. If you are using a basting gun you will need to place the basting grid in the middle of the floor or table before you place the backing fabric down. Stretch the cords attached to each of the four sides of the grid so that you can move the grid without disturbing the layers.
5.	Place the wadding on top. If it is cotton it will stick to the backing fabric. When using a large wadding you could try the following technique - fold the wadding in half, place the fold line in the middle of the quilt and then unfold it, smoothing it as you go. Then smooth the other side.
6.	Lay the quilt top right-side up on top of the wadding. Without disturbing your other layers smooth this out to the edges.
7.	Tack the three layers together using pins, safety pins, long basting stitches or a basting gun.
8.	Start at the centre and work towards the outside. A good idea is to secure the quilt with a vertical and horizontal line through the middle first. A grid or radiating design is effective. Your tacking should be 2 to 3 inches apart. The width of your hand is a reasonable guide. Ensure you also tack the edges. If your backing fabric is larger than your quilt top (usually it is good idea to make your wadding and backing larger than the quilt top and then trim them when you have finished quilting) bring the backing fabric over to the front so that the raw edges are hidden inside. This will protect the edge of your quilt. Unpin this when you are ready to quilt the borders.
9.	When you have finished check that the result is satisfactory. You may need to redo it if you have bumps or creases. Remember that time spent now will be worth it for a good end result. You may be disappointed with the finished quilt if your basting was poor.

How to attach a quilt to a frame

Unless you have used a three-pole design frame it is unlikely that you will know how to attach it. You may even be wondering how it is possible that it doesn’t need to be basted. The instructions below (based on the Grace frame instructions) describe the process for attaching a quilt onto all of the frames that have ratchet mechanisms. The Jasmine tension-lock system is slightly different.

Some frames come with the cloth sleeves on the poles. If you need to make sleeves we have found the combination of a cloth leader made from calico The quilt top and wadding are attached to the rear pole cloth sleeves (cloth sleeves are made to fit over each of the poles so that you can pin your quilt to them). The quilt backing is attached to the centre pole cloth sleeve. All three layers are attached to the front pole sleeve. You can then apply tension to the top and backing independently. If it is done correctly, you can get perfect tensioning over the entire quilt, usually without any need for side tensioning.

1. Adjust your frame so that the top is level. The backing is attached first. Be sure to cut your backing at least eight to ten inches (8-10") longer than the quilt top and somewhat wider to allow for stretching of the quilt top. Lay the backing over the rear of the frame and bring it up to the front pole. Pin the backing evenly near the edge of the front cloth sleeve. (Do not baste the backing to the pole yet. Pins are enough to hold it). Roll the backing onto the front pole until the far end reaches the centre pole. Smooth it out from the centre to the edges as you roll. If it is rolling crookedly, unroll it and reposition the front edge to correct it. Pin the rear edge of the backing to the sleeve on the centre pole. Make sure the tension is even all along the length of the pole.

2. Roll the backing back onto the centre pole while unrolling it from the front pole. Maintain a little tension with your hands and be sure it rolls up without any wrinkles. It should now be even and tight with the front pole unrolled all the way. If there are any sags, remove the pins, correct them and pin it again.

3. Lay the wadding on the backing and let it drop down between the two rear poles. The front edges of the wadding and backing should be even. Spread the quilt over the wadding with the front edge even with the backing and wadding. Neatly drape the rest of the top over the rear pole. Pin through the quilt top and wadding to the front pole sleeve. The quilt design, if possible, should run parallel to the centre pole ( this is more important than the front edge being exactly even with the edge of the backing and wadding).

4. Slowly roll the three layers onto the front pole while unrolling the centre pole and feeding the wadding up between the rear poles. Make sure the wadding is smooth and free of bunching and folds as it is fed into the quilt. It may help to tilt the frame at this time so you can more easily see how the wadding is rolling. When the edge of the quilt top is between the two rear poles, stop rolling. Trim away the extra wadding, if any.

5. Pin the quilt top and wadding close to the edge of the sleeve on the rear pole, working in the space between the two rear poles.

6. Release the ratchet pawl on the front pole and roll the quilt top and wadding onto the rear pole and the backing onto the centre pole. Begin quilting on the front of the quilt and work towards the rear. The sleeves on the rear poles should be long enough to allow the back edge of the quilt to move
down into the quilting position. Use the ratchets to keep the tension of the top and backing even. Side tensioning, if desired, can be accomplished by looping strips of fabric around the end frame and pinning them through all the quilt layers or using a tool such as the Edgemaster (available on Grace frames only).

By the time you’ve run through the process of putting the quilt on the frame a couple of times you will have learnt how not to do but equally how to get it right! If you are not happy with the result it is so important to take the quilt off and start again.

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